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Paris Fashion Week: Dior Homme gives new life to age-old classics

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PARIS — Dior Homme took to the runway with a polished lineup of reworked classics on Friday, kicking Paris Fashion Week’s menswear shows into high gear with a celebrity-packed show.

(Watch the show here: Winter 2023-2024 Men’s Show – Défilés – Men’s Fashion | DIOR)

Crowds of screaming fans lined the Place de la Concorde, erupting into cheers with the arrival of K-pop star Jimin, who was named earlier this week global brand ambassador for the house.

Guests of the LVMH-owned label — who also included Eddie Redmayne, The White Lotus actor Adam DiMarco, soccer star David Beckham and his son Cruz Beckham — were seated in a darkened tent facing a wall-length screen.

A sombre procession ensued and models walked out slowly, as actors Gwendoline Christie and Robert Pattinson recited T.S. Eliot’s poem “The Waste Land,” their faces projected onto the screen.

Dior men’s artistic director Kim Jones transformed familiar pieces such as fishermen’s rain caps, slickers and chunky sweaters into an elevated styles in muted colors — ivory, dusty blues and a pale, mustard yellow. There were also airy poncho windbreakers, loose trousers with an extra pleats, and wide bermudas, worn like skirts.

LOUIS VUITTONLouis Vuitton switched up the traditional fashion runway format with a performance from Spanish singer Rosalia taking center stage at the label’s menswear show in Paris on Thursday. (Watch the show here: Men’s Fall-Winter 2023 Show | LOUIS VUITTON .)

Rosalia opened the live event for the LVMH-owned fashion house, emerging from a darkened set wrapped in a puffy white jacket and loose jogging pants, sunglasses wrapped around her face. The Latin Grammy award winning pop-star animated the set — drawn up to resemble someone’s home — sprawling on the couch, jumping on a bed and singing from atop a bright, yellow car.

Models filed past, wearing long jackets with crisp lapels, clutching shiny bags, their looks topped off with curved bucket hats and baseball caps.

The label emphasized outwear with lengthened silhouettes, ranging from tailored coats to puffed-out bomber jackets, and sprinkled some artwork and logos into the mix.

Vuitton’s menswear show last June featured Florida’s Marching 100 band and rapper Kendrick Lamar.

The world’s largest fashion label last week named Pietro Beccari CEO, replacing industry veteran Michael Burke.

GIVENCHYGivenchy creative director Matthew M. Williams hit the runway Wednesday with a collection of layered looks for men, piling suit jackets on top of hoodies and wide-legged bermudas.

Adding texture, the designer of the LVMH-owned French fashion house also wove patches of color and distressed elements into the lineup, which included furry coats in bright colors, shiny puffer coats and exotic skin patterns. (Watch the show here: Givenchy Winter 2023 Men Collection )

The event was held on the second day of Paris Fashion Week’s menswear shows, which ran through Jan. 22 and included high end labels Louis Vuitton, Dior Homme, Hermes, and Maison Margiela.

Among celebrity arrivals, K-pop star Taeyang, named Givenchy brand ambassador on Tuesday last week, waved at crowds as he crossed cobblestones to reach to the show venue — a tent set up in front of the imposing 18th century Ecole Militaire complex in central Paris.

European fashion labels are looking to tap into the global popularity of South Korean stars, with an eye to younger shoppers, and the latest flurry of tie-ups include BTS’ Jimin for Dior and rapper Suga at Valentino, also announced last week.

SAINT LAURENTFrench luxury house Saint Laurent kicked off Paris Fashion Week’s menswear shows Tuesday night with a sleek lineup of sharply tailored evening looks for men, drawn up by designer Anthony Vaccarello. (Watch the show here: SAINT LAURENT Official Store | YSL.com )

The Kering-owned label took to the circular Bourse de Commerce — a historic wheat exchange refurbished to house the Pinault Collection of contemporary art —  sending models around the space in dark trench coats with prominent shoulders and white blouses, dressed up with oversize bows, or cut low, showing skin.

Models strode on pointy, heeled boots, their turtlenecks pulled up high, while tightly cinched overcoats were worn with the collars turned up.

For the finale, the room darkened and singer Charlotte Gainsbourg slipped into the piano seat, playing music as the models wrapped up the show with one more round.

She continued to play as Mr. Vaccarello walked out for his bow, prompting a burst of applause and cheers from the audience. — Reuters

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